Created by France's most copiously decorated chef, this special-occasion shrine to French cuisine is an exercise in unbridled luxury. If you manage to reserve a table in the hushed 65-seat dining room, it's yours for the entire evening, and you'll need the time to navigate your way through some of the most luscious food in town. Let sommelier AndrÃ© Compeyre partner your dishes with exquisite wines. Be fully aware that such exquisiteness comes at a hefty price. Two people could very easily drop $1,000 or more. But you'll never forget the meal. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch. Subway: B, C, D, E to 7th Ave.; N, Q, R, W to 57th St.